Ask the average American Jew what they think about the Jewish history of Georgia,and you’ll probably get a blank look in reply. America’s Peach State has an interesting history but it’s hardly famous as a center of Judaism or Jewish cultural heritage.
A quick geography lesson is usually enough to explain that the Georgia in question is a sovereign nation in the mountainous Caucasus region, about two and a half hours flight time from Tel Aviv. Georgia isn’t well known in the United States, but it’s a fascinating country with a long history and a unique Jewish community that traces its roots back to the time of the Babylonian exile!
A customized tour of Georgia is the highlight of a luxury Jewish heritage tour of the Caucasus. Not only is it a chance to explore one of the oldest Jewish cultures in the diaspora, a visit to Georgia is a warm and welcoming experience that includes amazing kosher food, visits to synagogues, and excursions to the country’s ancient historical sites – often located amidst beautiful natural scenery.
A Quick Overview of Georgia’s Jewish History
Georgia – and the wider Caucasus region – isn’t well-known in the US, so it’s definitely worth taking a minute to get oriented. The Caucasus sits between Russia, Central Asia and the Middle East. Its peoples have been shaped and influenced by the cultures of all these continents, but don’t belong to any of them.
Georgians in particular are fiercely independent and are proud of their heritage and traditions. They have their own language with a distinctive alphabet and value self-reliance, family and community. Georgian Jews share these values and have played an important role in Georgian national life and culture for centuries.
Anybody who is familiar with the legend of Jason and the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece already knows something about prehistoric Georgia. The city of Colchis was located in what is now Western Georgia and was part of ancient trading routes. The Golden Fleece is a popular emblem in Georgia today.
The story of the Jews in Georgia goes back at least 2,500 years when refugees fled the Babylonian exile (a tradition backed up by modern DNA analysis). The original Georgian Jews, who spoke Qivruli or Gruzinic, a Judeo-Georgian dialect with many Hebrew words, were separate and distinct from the Ashkenazi Jews who arrived when Russia occupied Georgia in the 19th century.
The earliest Jewish community witnessed Roman invasions, the arrival of Christianity and the emergence of Christian kingdoms in Georgia, conflicts with Arabs and Persians, a Mongol invasion, and centuries of resistance to the Ottomans and Russians.
The Modern Jewish Community
Modern independent Georgia survived communism – Stalin was a Georgian – and emerged from the collapse of the Soviet Union to become an independent country. The Jewish community endured alongside Georgian Christians and (Tsarist anti-Semitism aside) never faced significant persecution.
The modern Georgian Jewish community is small – just a couple of thousand – reduced by waves of emigration following the end of communism. The Jews who remain in Georgia preserve the old traditions and maintain the country’s historic synagogues. Gil Travel can arrange meetings with Georgian Jews and the opportunity to learn more about their culture first hand.
Jewish Heritage Sites in Georgia
The Oni Synagogue
One of the most important Jewish heritage sites in Georgia is the 19th century Oni Synagogue. A visit to the synagogue involves an excursion to the town of Oni in the highland Racha district – once home to a substantial Jewish community. When you visit Oni, you’ll really get a flavor of the traditional Caucasus region and an insight into how Georgian Jews used to live.
The Oni Synagogue is a real gem and its Moorish Revival style architecture somehow compliments the mountainous surroundings. The synagogue was designed by a Polish architect, built by Greek Jews from Thessaloniki and prayed in by a congregation of over 1,000 Georgian Jews. Today, the number of regular worshipers is less than 20. The Oni Synagogue was damaged during the 1991 Racha earthquake and was expertly renovated with American Jewish funding and Georgian government assistance. Every tourist visit helps to maintain the synagogue as a valuable part of the collective Jewish heritage.
Tbilisi Great Synagogue & Jewish Museum
Georgia’s capital Tbilisi is home to the Great Synagogue, completed in 1911. The Orthodox synagogue is still active and is easily identified by its distinctive red brick facade. The architectural style is a combination of Neo-Moorish and Neo-Romanesque and the interior is ornately decorated. The Tbilisi synagogue was one of the focal points of Jewish life in Tbilisi during the 20th century (albeit more discreetly during the Soviet era).
The synagogue was renovated in 2011, a hundred years after it was founded, and is an important feature of Georgia’s modern Jewish history. There is still a strong sense of community around the Great Synagogue and visitors are warmly welcomed. If you want to attend services in any of Tbilisi’s synagogues, Gil Travel can make the arrangements.
Another fascinating Jewish site in Tbilisi is the David Baazov Museum of History of Jews of Georgia (usually just called the Jewish Museum). It showcases and preserves Georgia’s rich Jewish history and was originally formed under the auspices of the local communist party and was moved to its current location (a former synagogue) in 1940. The museum’s artifacts and exhibitions range from the stone age through to modern times and give an excellent overview – as well as some beautiful insights – into the history and culture of Georgia’s Jewish community.
Kutaisi Jewish Quarter
The city of Kutaisi is old even by regional standards and may have featured in the legend of the Argonauts. Its Jewish quarter was once home to 30,000 people but now contains fewer than a hundred Jewish families. The Jewish quarter in Kutaisi was a neighborhood where Jews chose to live, rather than a ghetto where they were forcibly segregated. It’s a lovely place for a private walking tour with an English speaking guide and has three 19th century synagogues that are definitely worth visiting – all are conveniently located on Boris Gaponov Street.
Exploring other Tourist Sites in Georgia
Georgia is roughly the size of West Virginia or South Carolina. Although it’s not a big country, there is a lot to see. A customized luxury tour with Gil Travel can include a range of non-Jewish sites and activities, and a chance to meet ordinary Georgians. The country is an ally of the United States and there is no significant anti-Semitism. American Jewish tourists can relax and feel at home when they explore Georgia’s historical and cultural sites and its splendid natural beauty.
Old Tbilisi is a special place and most visitors are charmed by its cobblestone streets and eclectic architecture. The “Old City” was tragically devastated by Persian invaders in 1795 and most buildings date from after the invasion. One notable building that did survive the destruction is La Residence Castle, now a luxury boutique hotel. If you want to stay in a centuries old castle as part of your Jewish heritage tour of Georgia and the Caucasus, talk to Gil Travel. Old Tbilisi is also famous for its sulfur baths and panoramic views of the surrounding hills. One of the best viewpoints is the Narikala Fortress above the city.
The stark and windswept Kazbegi Mountains are an area of dramatic landscapes and visitors are often struck by their haunting austere beauty. They are a place of remote ancient churches, forts and towers and historically attracted a tough and determined breed of people. Gil Travel can arrange day trips or longer excursions into the Kazbegi Mountains, including 4×4 trips. The region is best explored during the warmer months.
The Wine Region of Kakheti is a complete contrast to the Kazbegi Mountains. Its clement climate has supported wine production for thousands of years and is the center of modern Georgia’s wine industry. Kakheti is noted for its hospitality and love of food and drink (notable even by generous Georgian standards). If you enjoy wine tours, you’ll certainly want to add a trip to Kakheti to your itinerary. Apart from wine, Georgia produces some excellent brandy and a fiery local spirit called chacha.
Plan a Customized Luxury Tour of Georgia
Gil Travel has close connections to the Jewish community in Georgia and has plenty of experience arranging high end tours of this friendly and welcoming country. If you want to explore Georgia’s unique Jewish history and culture and meet Georgian Jews, talk to us now about creating the perfect kosher travel itinerary for your family or travel group!
Questions & Answers
Are there kosher food options in Georgia?
Yes, Georgia is a popular destination for Israeli tourists and the (previously limited) range of kosher food options is gradually improving. Gil Travel can coordinate with the local Jewish community to provide some seriously appetising kosher Georgian food.
How old is the Jewish community of Georgia?
There have been Jews in Georgia for at least 2,600 years. They are one of the world’s oldest Jewish communities.
Can tourists attend a service at Oni or Tbilisi synagogue?
Yes, visitors are very welcome, but it’s polite to arrange your visit in advance.
What’s the best time to visit Georgia?
Generally the best time to visit is either just before or just after the hot summer months. May–June and September–October offer pleasant sunny weather, ideal for walking tours, scenic travel and evenings relaxing in cafes or on the balcony.
