Few places on earth match the old silk roads, the ancient trading routes between Asia and Europe, for mystery, romance and adventure. Uzbekistan lies on the heart of the silk roads and was home to a large community of Bukharin Jews for around 2,000 years.
The once thriving community produced merchants and traders, poets, scholars and artisans who helped make the historical cities of Bukhara, Samarkand and Khiva into important cultural treasures and centers of Jewish life in Central Asia.
This article offers some fascinating insights into Uzbekistan’s rich Jewish heritage, and how to create a tailored luxury tour of the country’s surviving Jewish sites (and its amazing UNESCO World Heritage Sites) and meet members of the small Jewish community that still lives in Uzbekistan.
Uzbekistan: A Quick Overview
Uzbekistan is a Central Asian republic that lies somewhere between Russia, India, Iran and China and was historically part of the Russian Empire, and then the Soviet Union, before declaring independence in 1991. Jewish heritage in Uzbekistan can be traced back to the period of the Babylonian Exile. The original Bukharan Jews were joined by Ashkenazi settlers in modern times.
A wave of emigration following the collapse of communism saw the Jewish presence in Uzbekistan fall to around 10,000 mainly Ashkenazi Jews. The huge majority of the ancient Bukharan community now live in Israel and the US, but their Uzbek heritage sites remain intact. The Uzbek government and private organizations are working to preserve important heritage sites like the Bukhara synagogue and old Jewish quarter.
Explore Bukhara’s Jewish Quarter
The Silk Road city of Bukhara has been inhabited for at least 5,000 years, growing around a precious desert oasis. It’s a paradise for history buffs who arrive to explore the city’s 140 plus archaeological sites and cultural treasures. American Jews who join a luxury tour of the city usually begin their exploration with a visit to the traditional Jewish quarter or Mahalla.
The entrance to the Jewish Mahalla is marked by the archway at Lyabi-hauz. As you step through it, you’ll feel like you’re going back in time.The Mahalla is characterised by its narrow winding streets and clay houses that were once home to generations of Bukharan Jews. The Mahalla is also famous for the craftsmanship of the exquisite wooden doors, painstakingly carved by long dead Jewish artisans.
A private guided tour will give you profound insights into a lost world of Central Asian Jewry and you will have as much time as you need to wander the quarter and explore its buildings and relics.
The Bukhara Synagogue and Jewish Museum
Religious observance was at the center of daily life in the old Mahalla. At one time there were at least half a dozen synagogues in Bukhara, and two have survived. The beautiful Bukhara Synagogue still welcomes worshipers, maintaining an unbroken connection to centuries of Uzbekistan’s Jewish heritage.
The three hundred year old synagogue is a superb example of Persian influenced Silk Road architecture, characterized by domes and archways and complex carvings. Gil Travel can usually arrange meetings with members of the congregation, and if you are in Bukhara for Pesach or Rosh Hasannah, a visit to the synagogue is a wonderful spiritual experience.
A guided tour of the Mahalla also includes a visit to the Jewish museum and the city’s old Jewish cemetery. The museum is small but contains some fascinating exhibits and is located in a four hundred and fifty year old building. Perhaps more than any other site, the museum will give you an understanding of Jewish Bukhara and how its people lived, worked and prayed in previous centuries.
Explore the Jewish History of Samarkand
The Silk Road city of Samarkand is located in a river valley in southeastern Uzbekistan. Samarkand has an ancient history and was conquered by both Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan, as well as a host of lesser tyrants. The medieval city was an important trading and cultural center and clearly impressed Marco Polo who visited it on his travels.
Samarkand’s Jewish history is also significant and there was once a substantial Jewish quarter inhabited by as many as 50,000 Bukharan Jews. Only a few Jewish families remain today, but much of the old mahalla and the Jewish cemetery can still be seen.
One of the first recorded accounts of Samarkand’s Jews was written by the traveler Benjamin of Tudela who visited them in the 12th century. The community had a reputation as expert dyers, merchants and artisans and preserved their traditions in the face of intermittent persecution.
A guided tour of the mahalla, with its old buildings and guesthouses, and more modern restaurants and gift shops, offers tantalising glimpses into the old way of life. The 19th century Gumbaz synagogue still conducts services for its small congregation and Jewish guests from abroad and a visit to the nearby tomb of the Prophet Daniel (located at the Siab River) is an interesting excursion. It should be noted that half a dozen other places in the Middle East also claim the honor of being Daniel’s final resting place…
Its Jewish heritage aside, Samarkand is one of the Silk Road’s most important and iconic cultural sites. It’s not an exaggeration to say that Samarkand is one of the most fascinating historical cities in the world to explore – particularly if you’re accompanied by an expert guide. The stunning Islamic architecture of Registan Square (with three beautiful madrasahs) and the tomb of Timur the Great are must-see sites. The Shah-i-zinda complex was extensively renovated during the Soviet period and is truly spectacular.
It is definitely worth spending a couple of days in Samarkand and Gil Travel can help you to create a tailored itinerary that allows you to really explore and dig deep without the time pressures and constraints that often spoil conventional organized tours.
Khiva’s Old City (Itchan Kala)
Khiva is the other great Silk Road city in Uzbekistan. Its Jewish community was smaller than Bokhara, but also produced skilled textile dyers, artisans and merchants. The Khanate of Khiva was far less tolerant of Jews and persecuted the community, imposing harsh taxes and forced conversions. Many of the forced converts, known as Cholas or Chalas (a pejorative term meaning people with no real identity), continued to practice Judaism in secret.
The 2,500 year old walled city is often simply referred to as an open air museum because it contains so many historical sites and artifacts. The old city of Itchan Kala is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its buildings and minarets look like something out of an Eastern fairy tale. A walking tour of Khiva really is a step back in time. It’s easy to stand there and imagine how impressive – even awesome – the old city must have seemed to medieval caravan traders as they arrived after an arduous desert journey.
Plan a Luxury Jewish Heritage Tour of Uzbekistan
Gil Travel will work with you to create a truly memorable luxury tour of Uzbekistan that creates exactly the right balance between an exploration of historical Jewish sites, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and modern Uzbek culture. Your tour can also include the chance to meet Bukharan Jews and members of the Ashkenazi community, and to attend Shabbat services in local synagogues.
Luxury kosher travel in Uzbekistan also includes the opportunity to sample some seriously appetizing kosher Uzbek food and Gil Travel will arrange top quality kosher dining, as well as home cooking and packed lunches or picnics for excursions. A Jewish tour of the Silk Road should also be a culinary adventure!
Talk to Gil Travel today about an exclusive tailored tour for your family, synagogue group or book club. The best times to visit Uzbekistan are the spring and fall and it’s possible to arrange a tour that coincides with one of the High Holidays. The chance to celebrate Passover, Rosh Hashannah or Sukkot on the Silk Road is something very few people will ever experience!
FAQs:
Are there still Jews living in Uzbekistan?
Yes, there are around 10,000 mainly Ashkenazi Jews. Around a third live in the capital Tashkent, while the rest live in small communities across the country.
Can visitors attend Shabbat services in Bukhara?
Yes, Gil Travel can coordinate with the local synagogue to arrange attendance at Shabbat or holiday services. Praying in the Bukhara Synagogue is a unique spiritual experience and a chance to make a deeper personal exploration of your Jewish identity.
What language did Bukharan Jews speak?
Bukhara was an important trading center and local Jews spoke a variety of languages. Their native tongue was Bukhori, a Judeo-Persian dialect with Tajik and Hebrew influences.
How can travelers reach Jewish sites along the Silk Road?
Gil Travel will arrange private guided tours from Tashkent, or vetted and insured local chauffeurs, for a safe luxury travel experience.
